Archive for the ‘travels’ Category

Pashupatinath Briddhasram

January 6, 2010

The Siddhi Shaligram Briddhasram (Home for the Elderly) is the only state-sponsored nursing home in the country of Nepal.  The home is located inside the Pashupatinath Hindu temple – the largest temple dedicated to Lord Shiva in the world.  The temple sits on the banks of the Bagmati river, a holy waterway that flows to the Ganges.  Cremations are performed here daily, and the smoke plumes from the fires drift overhead as worshipers offer marigold garlands to Shiva.

The conditions at the Biddhasram  are a bit shocking at first to Western eyes, but the residents here are actually among the lucky few.  Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world, with over half of the population living under the international poverty indicator of surviving on less than $1.25 per day [source].  While steep ancient steps and slick stone walkways pose a danger to the residents, the benefits they receive of hot, regular meals and a stable living environment outweigh the risks.

I spent most of my time at Pashupatinath in the ward that houses residents with disabilities.  The ailments of the patients range from manageable tuberculosis to severe mental handicaps.  Many of the people in the following photos could no longer verbally communicate, perhaps in these photos a bit of their lives can be seen without needing words.

This gentleman is almost totally blind and spends much of his time in his bed alone, yet when I asked him in Nepali how he was doing he replied with an enthusiastic “I’m beautiful!!”  His spirit stayed with me long after I left the home.

blind diptychSpeaking of spirit, this man greeted me with a smile and booming namaste every morning that I came to the homeHappy

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SunThese two are husband and wife and came to the home together.  She is quite disabled, and he never leaves her side.  A true love story

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This women is severely mentally handicapped and is prone to spontaneous hysterical ranting fits. Only two things keep her calm. 1. Helping with the daily chores and 2. Having her hand held. When volunteers come to help clean the ward they offer their hands, otherwise one of the other residents sits quietly with her. They don’t speak. They just sit. Hand in hand.  The last portrait is of the hand-holding friend.eyes diptych

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xo,
klc

Kathmandu is quite the intense city.  The transportation is insane, as I’ve come to take as par for the Asian course, and it is unfortunately quite dirty, dusty, and polluted.   The smaller, older streets are packed tight with local markets, tourist shops, street vendors, and more people than you could imagine all flowing together to form a mass that literally pulses and breathes.

In the midst of all the energy lie some of the holiest sites in the Hindu and Buddhist faiths.   Huge temples and stupas lie almost hidden from sight – one at the top of an ardous set of hundreds of stairs guarded by monkeys, another found down a quiet winding lane that a passerby wouldn’t give another look.  These are the jewels of Kathmandu, places where, no matter what your beliefs, you can take respite from the insanity around you and marvel at the humbling power of faith.

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Swayambhunath Stupa (a stupa is buddhist building of faith and worship) requires a serious hike to reach, but the sweeping views of Kathmandu valley are well worth it.  A description from my guide book: “According to legend, the Kathmandu Valley was once a lake – geological evidence supports this – and the hill now topped by Swayambhunath rose spontaneously from the waters, hence the name swayambhu, meaning ’self-arisen’”

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Boudhanath stupa is one of the largest stupas and holiest sites in the world.  The area is particularly sacred to Tibetan Buddhists, and a visit to the site is assured to come with the sight of crimson-clad monks circumambulating the stupa.

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At Boudhanath, the eyes of Buddha gaze serenely from every facet of the gilded tower as prayer flags flap over head.

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May you always have your own peaceful places.

xo,

klc

Fewa Lake. Pokhara, Nepal

January 1, 2010

Nothing journalistic today, just some pretty lake photos for y’all.

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Happy 2010 my friends, may your waters be calm and peaceful in the year ahead.

xoxo,

klc

The Faces of Rural Nepal

December 24, 2009

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I have spent the last three weeks volunteering in the rural Terai region of Nepal.  I was based in Narti, a very small village in the Dang district.  Dang is home to a large population of the Tharu people, an ethnic group that was immune to malaria and enjoyed their way of the region for many years undisturbed.  When malaria was eradicated, hill people from the north began to move in and seize the land of the Tharu.  Today, over 70% of the population of the Terai is landless and live in extreme poverty.  In the face of their difficult lives, all of the people I met during my time in Narti were warm and welcoming, happily offering a smile, which is often all that they had to give.

These are some of their faces.

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I’ve been feeling a bit homesick around this holiday season, so I’m glad to be able to share with all of you a taste of what my home has been like for the past month.

Much love

klc

Travel Snapshot: Animals!

November 22, 2009

Goat!


Goats, Monkeys, Camels, Crocs, Birds, Elephants, and Snakes – OH MY!

I took this photo about half-way up the walk to the Monkey Temple in Jaipur, India.  The walk to the top takes about 20 minutes and there is a myriad of animals along the way.  I have no idea how this big guy got up there, it had to have taken hours.  Since cows are considered living Goddesses and this photo was snapped in a temple I suppose I witnessed an extra holy event.  Extra odd if you ask me.

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Love this big guy

DSC_0348The least exciting animal in the bunch, but the sheer number of them makes up for it…and there’s an appearance by the author :) Pigeons (and me)

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And one more monkey for good luck.

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Hope you enjoyed all my little friends!

xoxo,

klc

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I’ll try to keep this as neutral as possible as to not offend anyone’s beliefs, but I’ll start by saying that I myself am not a follower of any organized religion.  I think that religion does an amazing amount of good in this world and more often than not makes for better people and better communities.  However I cannot ignore the wars, exclusion, and crimes that are committed in the name of some god.

While in India I assisted my cousin, who is also a photographer, in shooting a Christian campaign in Agra.  The campaign involved on average 400 Indians gathering 4 evenings a row to listen to a minister from America preach through a translator about Jesus.  Missionary work has been going on all over the world for hundreds of years.  I get it, and I’m not offended by it.  But the manner in which this particular campaign was presented was troublesome to me.

The people who came to listen to the preaching are most likely practicing Hindus.  They came not for Jesus but because they heard a promise of healing.  These people are inflicted with polio, blindness, leprosy, and worse.  They may simply be poor and struggling to feed their families or cannot conceive children.  They will try anything in order for their fortune to turn around, so this night, they’ll try Jesus.  The preacher, who if he really is a Christian and attempts to have a personal relationship with Jesus that takes dedication and years of work, seemingly goes against this own discipline and encourages these cheap flash-and-dash “healings.”  He calls people on the stage, puts his hands on their heads and claims to be curing their ills through the power of God.  I found the whole experience to be exploitive of these people, their visceral problems and pains, and the importance and power of commitment to a faith.

Regardless of my feelings of the event, I was able to capture what I think are some powerful photos.  I hope you’re able to feel through the images the desperate longing of these people for a better life.

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Thanks for reading, I’d love to hear any thoughts you may have.

xoxo,

klc

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I mentioned before that one of the most jarring things for me during my time in Asia has been the transportation.   There is absolutely no order to any of it, or at least that is how it seems.  Lane markers, if there are any, are completely ignored, and driving down the street is like playing an insane game of chicken.  Most of the vehicles are 10 – 20 years old and held together with what may be twine, and the drivers  have absolutely no fear.  But, somehow, it all works.  There are a lot of accidents, but I believe fewer casualties because the crashes are at slower speeds….I have yet to see an American-style superhighway in India or Nepal.

So, here are a few photos from our many forms of transportation.  Tuk-tuks, trains, and buses…just a few of the ways we have traveled around.

I could have lived without the 18+ hour train ride from Delhi to Gorakphur…I took barely any photos because to be honest I was too busy trying to block out the whole experience.

We had to travel in 3rd class, where there are 6 beds to a berth and at least 3 Indians who try to cram onto each bed…when stubborn Americans like us won’t let them, they sleep on the floor and in the aisles….when that space is used up they lay in front of the toilets. It was….trying….to say the least.

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After the train we had the pleasure of a harrowing bus ride to the Nepali border.  The bus wouldn’t leave until it was full, and when I say full, I mean full.  There were about 10 men standing in the aisles and another 8 or so on the roof for the entire 5 hour ride.  The photo below was taken on another ride to Pokhara in Nepal, not as bad as the aforementioned trip, but at one point the bus stopped and let on at least 25 women and their children who were crammed in the aisles and at the front.  The bus however had a mirrored ceiling, fancy tin cut-outs and colored tassles….so we were riding in style.

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Now experience a fast and furious evening tuk-tuk ride through the streets of Agra…

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And finally, a lost in translation moment that did indeed make me laugh and reach for my camera…what can I say?

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xoxo and a smile,

klc

Young faces of India

November 19, 2009

I have been in Nepal for over a week now, but while traveling my access to a good wireless signal has been sketchy at best. So now that I’ll be in one place for a few days expect the blog posts to come fast and furious while I catch up.

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Taj Mahal and The Red Fort

November 7, 2009

No visit to India is complete with a trip to the Taj Mahal, and rightly so.  The building is a spectacle to behold, and the sheer enormity of it is staggering.  That being said, the whole experience was quite stressful.  A generalization, but I’ve found that the majority of Indians have a different concept of personal space than Americans, and it can be trying.  I actually preferred The Red Fort, which is located near the Taj and is where the builder of the Taj was actually imprisoned by his son.  One of the most memorable moments of the trip so far happened at the end of the day at the Fort.  When we were leaving the building at the end of the day, we got to the front gate and turned around to see at least 100 monkeys streaming out the doors towards us.  They have been trained to recognize when the fort is closing and the humans who give them food to eat are leaving.  Monkeys are not friendly animals, and being surrounded by that many was quite unnerving.  Anyhow, on to the photos.

First, a few from the Fort

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And these next photos don’t need any introduction

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And finally I leave you with a camel…..and a goat on a roof.

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xoxo,

klc

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I spent the afternoon at Mother Teresa’s Home of the Missionaries of Charity.  The Home is a place where the sisters care for orphaned children as well as the elderly, sick, and infirm.  There really isn’t much that I can say that wouldn’t feel trite, so I’ll just let the photos be.

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My heart feels different.  It feels better.

xoxo

klc