Archive for January, 2010
The Siddhi Shaligram Briddhasram (Home for the Elderly) is the only state-sponsored nursing home in the country of Nepal. The home is located inside the Pashupatinath Hindu temple – the largest temple dedicated to Lord Shiva in the world. The temple sits on the banks of the Bagmati river, a holy waterway that flows to the Ganges. Cremations are performed here daily, and the smoke plumes from the fires drift overhead as worshipers offer marigold garlands to Shiva.
The conditions at the Biddhasram are a bit shocking at first to Western eyes, but the residents here are actually among the lucky few. Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world, with over half of the population living under the international poverty indicator of surviving on less than $1.25 per day [source]. While steep ancient steps and slick stone walkways pose a danger to the residents, the benefits they receive of hot, regular meals and a stable living environment outweigh the risks.
I spent most of my time at Pashupatinath in the ward that houses residents with disabilities. The ailments of the patients range from manageable tuberculosis to severe mental handicaps. Many of the people in the following photos could no longer verbally communicate, perhaps in these photos a bit of their lives can be seen without needing words.
This gentleman is almost totally blind and spends much of his time in his bed alone, yet when I asked him in Nepali how he was doing he replied with an enthusiastic “I’m beautiful!!” His spirit stayed with me long after I left the home.
Speaking of spirit, this man greeted me with a smile and booming namaste every morning that I came to the home
These two are husband and wife and came to the home together. She is quite disabled, and he never leaves her side. A true love story
This women is severely mentally handicapped and is prone to spontaneous hysterical ranting fits. Only two things keep her calm. 1. Helping with the daily chores and 2. Having her hand held. When volunteers come to help clean the ward they offer their hands, otherwise one of the other residents sits quietly with her. They don’t speak. They just sit. Hand in hand. The last portrait is of the hand-holding friend.
xo,
klc
Posted in Journalism, Portraits, travels |
4 Comments »
Kathmandu is quite the intense city. The transportation is insane, as I’ve come to take as par for the Asian course, and it is unfortunately quite dirty, dusty, and polluted. The smaller, older streets are packed tight with local markets, tourist shops, street vendors, and more people than you could imagine all flowing together to form a mass that literally pulses and breathes.
In the midst of all the energy lie some of the holiest sites in the Hindu and Buddhist faiths. Huge temples and stupas lie almost hidden from sight – one at the top of an ardous set of hundreds of stairs guarded by monkeys, another found down a quiet winding lane that a passerby wouldn’t give another look. These are the jewels of Kathmandu, places where, no matter what your beliefs, you can take respite from the insanity around you and marvel at the humbling power of faith.
Swayambhunath Stupa (a stupa is buddhist building of faith and worship) requires a serious hike to reach, but the sweeping views of Kathmandu valley are well worth it. A description from my guide book: “According to legend, the Kathmandu Valley was once a lake – geological evidence supports this – and the hill now topped by Swayambhunath rose spontaneously from the waters, hence the name swayambhu, meaning ’self-arisen’”
Each of these Buddha statues is about the size of three Mack trucks stacked on top of one another.
Boudhanath stupa is one of the largest stupas and holiest sites in the world. The area is particularly sacred to Tibetan Buddhists, and a visit to the site is assured to come with the sight of crimson-clad monks circumambulating the stupa.
At Boudhanath, the eyes of Buddha gaze serenely from every facet of the gilded tower as prayer flags flap over head.
May you always have your own peaceful places.
xo,
klc
Posted in travels |
2 Comments »
Excuse my dirty lens. It was cold and wet out there – I had trouble keeping the glass clean.
